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Damp, rot and timber

More money is wasted on damp than on any other defect in British housing, almost all of it because the wrong kind was treated. Work out what you actually have before anyone quotes you for anything.

Start with the diagnosis, not the treatment

In UK homes, condensation is by far the most common damp, penetrating damp second, internal leaks third, and true rising damp a distant fourth. The damp-proofing industry tends to work that list in reverse. If a company offering free damp surveys also sells the remedy, the survey is a sales visit — get an independent opinion before you commit to a chemical damp-proof course.

The tell-tale that settles most arguments

Check the external ground level. It must sit at least 150mm below the damp-proof course. Raised paths, decking, gravel, flower beds and render carried down past the DPC bridge it, and bridging is the single most common cause of what gets diagnosed as rising damp. It costs a few hundred pounds to fix and it is not a damp-proofing job.

On old buildings, breathability is the whole game

A pre-1919 solid wall has no cavity and no membrane. It works by absorbing moisture and evaporating it back out again — the evaporation is the damp-proofing. Wrap it in cement render, cement pointing and modern plastic paint and the moisture cannot leave, so it moves inwards. Lime mortar, lime plaster and breathable paint are not heritage affectations; they are how the wall functions.

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Every guide on this topic

A clear air brick set into a brick wall, ventilating the void beneath a suspended timber floor

Air Bricks: What They Do and Why You Shouldn't Block Them

Air bricks look like spare holes in the wall, but on a house with a suspended timber floor they're doing an important job. Here's what they do, how they get blocked, and a five-minute check for yours.

Read the guide →

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